SUMC - Swansea University Mountaineering Club

Are you curious about climbing, or considering joining a club to get more experience? We welcome all new members, whether you're a complete beginner or have climbed all your life. Have a look at our about us and FAQ sections to discover who we are and find out how to join, or send us an email if you'd like to find out more.

If you're new to climbing then take a look in our resources section for tips and advice or motivate yourself by browsing our climbing gallery. You can join our Facebook page which has even more updated photos from our climbing trips and socials, and you can find other like-minded members there too! You can also talk to other members of the club in crag chat (our forum).

Existing members - whether you're a beginner or climb E11 - tell us your views or tips on the top crags to visit, or write a climbing feature about your experiences. Don't forget to visit the events page and our forum for regular event updates and local knowledge about the places to go. We're always open to contributors from all fields so whether you climb all the time, want to learn or just enjoy the lifestyle - let us know.

Another successful trip to Trebanog - home of sandstone climbing, solid gear and the definition of 'locals'.
We left uni and arrived promptly in Trebanog for a first time for some. We parked the cars close together, sandwiching Gregs yellow machine in the middle to try and hinder possible car thieves. However despite rumour (and past experiance) Trebanog seemed void of such charactars and remained so all day.

Notable climbs of the day included Neil's VS mission of Airplay and Sunday Swing. Greg sent High and Dry, a lovely E1 crimp fest, and I attempted to find the contrived line of Blood (E1). Probably failed there. Fernley lead two routes and managed to find bomber threads as gear on both. On one of these routes, Lydia managed to have an epic seconding it. Some swift footwork and re-direction (to the easy way) overcame this.

Charlotte climbed Hard Death Rain Down (HS) shortly after I broke one of the finishing crimps off the topout making the route easier for the short-armed. On the same route (and mention worthy) I managed a no hands double knee-bar. Which was cool. Other ascents were Matt R and Greg's ascent of Terry's crack (VS) - highly reccommended to anyone climbing that grade range!

The trip was a success (as always with Trebanog) no hoodlums, no fish and no burberry.


Matt

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This weekend was the clubs second trip of the year to the peak district to do some climbing on the grit and compete in BUCS. Unfortunately only 1 of the 2 ocurred.

While still a sore subject due to technical cock up's made between the AU and BUCS organisers our team weren't allowed to compete. Whereas most people would see this as a crushing blow, our gallant lot saw it as a great chance to go out and do some ACTUAL bouldering at stanage on the Saturday (which makes them winners in my book!) Im sure they all had a fantastic time despite some changing weather.

The rest of us decided that the rain we saw in the morning and the forecast of rain was going to persist and so we went for a walk up Kinder way. Despite it being sunny for the first part, then drizzly for middle and sunny again for the last part, we had a great time hopping back and forth across a river and up some waterfalls. This obviously led to some big boot wet rock bouldering which was awesome fun. A little navigation malfunction meant we accidently stumbled upon some weird and wonderful rock sculptures of the 'wool packs'. After a bit of a climb around them, we headed down towards Jacob's ladder, home and for food.

The second day we decided to climb regardless and yes, that meant rain in the morning. Our destination was Birchen rocks and to meet up with the disheartened (but still happy remember..) boulderers. A damp start to the day soon turned into fantastic sunshine, to the point of sun burn to some of our red-headed friends...

Some ascents of the day included Jonny mounting the chockstone of Hollybush gulley (Vdiff 4b!!), I sent the airey Hammock (VS 5b), Joe lead his first peaks HVS with Momument Gulley Buttress (HVS 5b) and Lydia having some introductory nightmares of peak district chimneys with Admirals progress (Diff). Sacrificing a reasonable return time to get more climbing in, we left the crag at about 4:30 as the sun was fading and drove home. No hospital trips this time, thus a good trip.

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Describing the trip in 3 words: cold, sunny and Betsy.

We loaded up the cars at about 9:20am and left for Three cliffs to be reminded that car parking at Southgate this time of year is free. Woop woop! We slid into our muddy car park spots, packed up and started walking along the top of the cliffs towards the crag. We got to the top of three cliffs bay, looked down and saw the tide was in pretty substantially. Clearly a cock-up in timings, we decided that now would be a good time for the new learners to practice building anchors at a safe level. We did this for about 30 minutes, by which time the tide was far out enough to move to Pobbles West.

I started up fissure route direct, possibly the most unimaginative climb I've ever done, but nevertheless a climb. Others went up similar difficulty routes to get the practice in and the muscles warm. After some faffing at the top I belayed John up and we moved on to Three cliffs proper.

The day was full of new firsts for people. Cathy and Charlotte climbed their first HS climbs (either Perseverance of Joggled wall direct), Greg managed to have 4 pieces of gear pop on a single route (whilst at the same time climbing Inverted V, HVS), John managed to climb Quartz corner, HS without a rest and Zara did her first trad lead. Congrats to all!

In the meantime we had made a knew friend, Betsy the dog. Betsy is a basset hound who lives at three cliffs bay (??) and was obsessed with the reflection of herself in the rock pools, looking longingly into water with soul searching intent. Regularly interrupted with someone coming up to give her a pat, Betsy stayed with us for pretty much all of the day and even started to follow us home. She became quite attached to Henry as she stayed with him and watched him while he alleviated himself on the walk home.

The big balls award for the day goes to Johnny Webb for climbing the thin and scary Arch slab VS, as his 3rd lead. Despite my efforts to talk him out of it, Johnny set off to the ledge, put a bomber hex in and started moving onto the slab traverse. Another nut went in, and then a size 1 nut before Johnny started moving up and across. Without any warning, Johnny's foot slipped and he started sliding. Me and Ed filled our pants at the prospect of landing on a size 1, but before we knew it I got pulled into a pool of water, and Johnny stopped moving - the number 1 held! Much to everyone's delight and surprise include Johnny's who replied with "Oh. I'm surprised that held!" Captain cool survived and finished the route in glorious style!

Despite the slight mix up with tides, we left the crag at dusk and had a great day. Our last challenge for the day was to try and tussle a way out of the mud. Greg managed to free his car first while the rest of us needed pushing out. I think Alex Wade was trying to dig a way through to solid earth by flooring it in reverse. For future reference: It didn't help.

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