Next Event: Learn to lead trad

       

Welcome to the Swansea University Mountaineering Club website

Are you curious about climbing, or considering joining a club to get more experience? We welcome all new members, whether you're a complete beginner or have climbed all your life. Have a look at our about us and FAQ sections to discover who we are and find out how to join, or send us an email if you'd like to find out more.

If you're new to climbing then take a look in our resources section for tips and advice or motivate yourself by browsing our climbing gallery. You can join our Facebook page which has even more updated photos from our climbing trips and socials, and you can find other like-minded members there too! You can also talk to other members of the club in crag chat (our forum).

Existing members - whether you're a beginner or climb E11 - tell us your views or tips on the top crags to visit, or write a climbing feature about your experiences. Don't forget to visit the events page and our forum for regular event updates and local knowledge about the places to go. We're always open to contributors from all fields so whether you climb all the time, want to learn or just enjoy the lifestyle - let us know.

News

North Wales report

by PaRtZ

27th November 2011

The first mountaineering trip to North Wales was a great sucess despite less than average conditions. For the first day, the group split into two teams, Dave and Gimbo taking some scrambling up Tryfan, whilst myself and Joe headed to Idwal slabs for some multipitch. A MET office severe wind weather warning would scare mere mortals, but not us! Whilst the scramblers began scaling Tryfan, we trotted to the foot of the slabs and finally gained a bit of shelter from the wind before racking up and heading up in dry.

Joe led ordindary route (Diff) while I led Hope (VDiff) behind some climbers from bristol uni, intent on having an epic at every pitch despite telling us they would be 'moving together'. At pitch two, the rain cometh and didn't stop for the rest of the day, turning the slabs into a shallow river running down climbers sleeves inside their jackets. Later on, horror struck as climbers started shouting 'BELOW!' above us. We conveyed the message and looked up to see what had been dislodged, when Joe's lunchbox slid over the top and bounced down the slab... After a short traverse under a mini waterfall and up the last river pitch, my group met up with Joe's and we started the scramble upwards to get down. A sketchy abseil later (probably a Severe) and we were finally safe ish. We decided to head back out of the wind and rain to go to Betws for a cup of tea. Whilst driving we saw the scramblers looking just as wet as us, but still pretty happy. Kudos to them all for actually getting to the summit of Tryfan and in a short amount of time too! They agreed with our plan and we headed to Betws for refreshment and shopping.

The second day was a complete reversal with glorious sunshine all day. A trip to Tremadog was on the cards for some more multi-pitch climbing with the whole team spread out across the crag. After a brief diversion Dave was bored and started driving through puddles in the road, the last one seeing a poor cow in the field overcome by the tidal wave that interrupted it's breakfast. We pulled into the car park, geared up and headed off.

I took my guys up Oberon (Vdiff) with some fun slabs and awkward chimneys (and cam consuming rocks...) and then Rio (HS) with a cosy belay ledge. Dave and Alex headed up Hail Bebe (Vdiff) and Joe went up the Tremadog classic Christmas Curry/Micah Eliminate (HS). A well timed abseil from mine and Joe's last routes and we headed back to the cars and home.

All in all a great success and a great weekend. Thanks to everyone who came, although next time its raining you have no excuse to go out and climb :)

Matt Ev

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Peaks trip report

by PaRtZ

19th November 2011

By Joe

we all met up on Friday night after lectures and piled into cars and headed off north, to land of 'ard climbers and 'arder drinkers.
After a quick stop at KFC and tesco's we arrived at the bunkhouse and got settled in, it soon became apparent that the bunks were more suited to those of us of a shorter stature! unlucky Dave. On Saturday we headed for Stanage for some classic gritstone climbing and bouldering, but the weather gods had other ideas and it started to rain just as the leaders were topping out of there first climb of the day, so while some hardy souls stuck it out up at high neb (Dave, Webber, Nick, Jack and Vincent) the rest of us decided and orderly retreat into Hathersage for some tea and gear shopping was in order.

By the time we were bored of gear shopping the rain had eased off a bit so we headed to the roaches and managed to squeeze in a couple of routes and some bouldering it was during this session that Neil managed to fall off the biggest holds in the world and hurt his knee putting him out of action for the trip.

the evening saw beer drinking and being bonfire night fireworks (cheers Fernley).

the morning brought clear skies and good friction so off we headed back to the roaches, it wasn't until the end of the day when someone, who shall remain nameless had a go at the classic HVS vallkarine direct that things got interesting due to a quickdraw shortage but after some fun and games retrieving them we were Swansea bound once more.

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If you can feel your hands, you’re not climbing hard enough! Despite the cold and wet, the club’s second trip of the year was a great success, with members enjoying two full days out climbing on the hills.
Friday started with the usual challenge of fitting 18 people plus kit into cars, once accomplished, we set off for t’North. After a four hour journey, and a stop for a traditional (for the club) tea at KFC, we arrived at the Snowdon Inn, which compared to previous visits was pretty quiet. With the prospect of an early start, everybody settled down to an early(ish!) night.
Saturday morning proved to be as forecast; misty and cold, but dry! The majority of the club headed off to Ogwen to climb at Milestone Buttress, while a few went sport climbing on the coast. Upon arriving at the crag, the weather had began to clear, and after a pitch or so of climbing, there were wonderful views across the valley. Myself and a few others climbed Rowan Route (Diff), which for some was their first multipitch climb, whilst others climbed Direct Route (V.Diff) and Pulpit Route (V.Diff). Depsite the cold conditions, everyone enjoyed their routes and the abseil down a gully (which was more like a waterfall!). After a full day climbing, we were glad to get to Pete’s Eats in Llanberis for a well earned meal. The evening promised to be an interesting experience, with the Snowdon Inn putting on a ‘Techno’ night. This wasn’t as bad as expected, with the highlight being having a chat with one Johnny Dawes, whose line of “having a better sounding washing machine” perfectly described the music. Stephen must’ve thought otherwise, as he stayed up long after everyone else dancing the night away…
With a damp night, we treated ourselves to a lie in on Sunday morning, and got up at 0630. Once we’d helped Johnny Dawes push start his car (and left him a James Pearson leaflet by his caravan), we headed for Ogwen again, where most people went climbing on Idwal Slabs. Myself and a few others went walking up Snowdon, which proved to be more of a mountaineering trip than expected, with light snow near the summit making the walk more interesting. It was many people’s first time up Snowdon, so the amazing views of the mountain’s crags under a light snow made it extra special, and I’m sure more memorable.
Everyone who went trad climbing at Idwal Slabs seemed to have enjoyed themselves, with groups climbing the classic routes there including Tennis Shoe (Severe), Ordinary Route (Diff) and Charity (V.Diff). It was again some people’s first experience of multipitch climbing, so an exciting day for them. We eventually all met up again at Pen y Pass, and set off ‘Due South’ for Swansea. After yet more KFC on the way, we arrived home late in the evening.
The weekend was a great success, and everyone had a good weekend away. Thanks to everyone who drove on the trip, without whom it wouldn’t have been possible, and also to everyone who helped teach the beginners.

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