Trebanog Trip Report

by Daniel Green

Starting the day in the usual fashion, the convoy left from Fulton and made it to the crag in uneventful fashion. No sooner had we parked and trekked the massive distance to the crag, Jack ‘The Moaner’ Smith realised that there was little-to-no sport here. To make matters worse, he was then told that those who hadn’t gone on the club trip went to sport dedicated crags on the Gower. After Jack attempted Banog’s Barmy Army (6c+) and Ola & Marcin climbed what I believe was Last Arête (HS, 4c), they along with Will left and went to another local area.

Fantastic weather greeted us at the crag, many people started crushing new grades and others made climbs look easy. Jack Sewell lead the stampede up High and Dry (E1, 5a), with Barber, Palfrey and Cosford also leading up the route. On the topic of Cosford, on the route next door (Mick’s Little Viper HVS, 5a), he had what can only be described as a brown trouser moment. On a crack route, he freaked out, and after using Abbey’s gear he lowered himself onto his own placements. This was all taking place whilst Abbey was climbing Eastend Crack (HS) which after resting finished. She also completed Air Play (VS, 4b). Mike and I started out the day climbing Desperate Arête (S), followed by Ledge Climb (VS), with the bottom being more like a bouldering problem than trad since gear was near impossible to place. I then also led Desperate Arête and Simon’s Crack (S) amongst a couple of others. Also crushing it (of whom I can remember), Chris completed his first full day leading trad routes finishing Simon’s Crack amongst a few others, Jaffa & Min climbed well all day, unfortunately not re-climbing Jaffa Buttress (HVS, 5a) since he had previously climbed it despite being reminded that it was there. Barber and Sewell also completed an ‘extremely dirty chimney’ named Fire Down Below (E2, 5a). Jack then finished off the day soloing over 5 routes. Since being asked to write this report, Barber has reminded me on multiple occasions to write that he managed to complete Banog’s Barmy Army which Jack was unable to complete.

After the climb, a quick photoshoot took place, and as normal, Sewell took his t-shirt off. Someone stop him…

Doing this trip report was a good test of my memory, sorry if I made a mistake, looking forward to the Easter trip now!


* Chris said that if I put in the report that he soloed Fire Down Below (E2, 5a) he would buy me a drink in Alicante, so, I’ve completed my end of the bargain now Mr. Evans *