SUMC - Swansea University Mountaineering Club

With possibly the entire collection of club gear, the club headed to Boiler Slab for a bit of workshop on placing gear and the likes. Once we had parked the cars, and loaded each person up with excessive amounts of gear we headed for the crag.

According to the guide, the walk in is about 5 minutes, it probably is, except that me (Stu) and Rhys took the wrong way in. So we went the scenic way round. After walk over about 2 or 3 valleys to get to Boiler slab, Pete and Steff then set about setting up two top ropes for people to practise placing gear on. One on Classic, HD and the other on Nemo, VS, 4c. At which point Matt made the obvious joke that he had indeed Found Nemo.

With the top ropes set up and a 'master' class in gear, Susannah was first to climb Classic, in turn Steve and James climbed the route with ease, with the majority of gear being pretty sound. While the learning process was going on for these guys, Mikey Mike boldly climbed Nuclear Arms E2, 5C. After searching for holds on the apex of the roof, Mike went for the crux move out over the top to finish the route. Matt and Steff both made light work of Pinnacle Crack, VD.

Rhys had been scouting his first E1 climb for a few weeks, and had picked one out at Boiler Slab, Tokyo E1, 5C.Placing a bomber looking cam, and giving it a good tug, Rhys realised his cam placements are shit and found bomber nuts instead, much to my relief. The next move was the crux move out over a bulge using a good pocket onto a distant flake. Rhys made the move look easy, but when I came to second it, it took me ages to get enough purchase on the flake to carry on (after quite a few attempts, and alot of swearing).

Late in the afternoon another top rope was set up, above the roof, where Mike had climbed earlier in the day, for some challenging top roping to end the day.

Thanks to all that came

Stu
http://www.uwsmc.org.uk